Buddhist Lent: Class Field Trip

August 2, 2555: Asalha Puja; Beginning of Vassa (Theravada)

Buddhist Lenten: Vassa is a three-month annual retreat observed by Theravada monks and nuns. It begins on the day after the full moon day of the eighth lunar month of the common Buddhist calendar, which usually falls in July, but this year it falls on August 2nd. The retreat ends on the 15th day of the waxing moon of the eleventh lunar month, usually in October. Sometimes this holiday is called "Dharma Day." Asalha Puja commemorates the first sermon of the Buddha, called the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta  (or sermon of Buddha), "setting the wheel of dhamma (dharma) in motion." In this sermon, the Buddha explained his doctrine of the Four Noble Truths. These form the foundation of Buddhism. The truths are: 

1. The Truth of Suffering is the First Noble Truth, and is often translated as "Life is suffering"  (samudaya).  But the Pali word, dukkha, also refers to that which is temporary, conditional, or a compound of many things. Even something precious and enjoyable is considered dukkha, because it is temporary.

This truth is related to the nature of life and the nature of the self. In Buddhism, human life is temporary, conditional and compounded by many issues. Buddhism teaches that life is impermanent, and that we, also, are impermanent. Buddhism also teaches that before one can understand life and death one must understand the self as impermanent. Many agree that the nature of human existence is tragedy, yet Christianity differs from Buddhist philosophy in its view of the human soul as impermanent. Christians believe that the human soul, for better or worse, is eternal. 

2. The Truth of the Cause of Suffering is the Second Noble Truth, which teaches that the cause of suffering is craving or thirst (tanha). Buddhist tradition teaches that humanity continually searches for something outside the self to make it happy. Yet no matter how successful one is, he/she does not remain satisfied for long.  Buddhism teaches that this thirst grows from an ignorance of the self. Humans sometimes go through life grabbing one thing after another to get a sense of security about ourselves. They attach not only to physical things, but also to ideas and opinions about the self, others, and the world. Often these individuals, according to Buddhist philosophy, grow frustrated when the world doesn't behave, think, or conform to prescribed expectations. This is probably true of all of us, from time to time.

3. The truth of the end of suffering (nirhodha)  Buddhist teachings on the Four Noble Truths are sometimes compared to a physician diagnosing an illness and prescribing a treatment. The first explains the illness, and the second lists the causes of the illness. The third truth holds out hope for a cure. Buddhism teaches that through diligent practice, mankind can put an end to craving. Ending the chase for satisfaction is called  enlightenment (bodhi = awakened). The enlightened being then exists in a state called Nirvana. At my age, most of what once bedazzled me no longer does. Most of us grow up sometime. I'm grateful that I've finally outlived most (but not all) of my various obsessions. My past is littered with the mess.


4. The truth of the path that frees us from suffering (magga)
Here, Buddha as physician prescribes the treatment for the illness of humanity.  Like Christianity, in Buddhism there is no particular benefit to merely believing a doctrine. Instead, the emphasis is on living the doctrine and walking the path. In Buddhist countries, as in Christian ones, this teaching is not routinely followed. Many call themselves followers of Buddha, as many say that they are followers of Christ, and yet their actions reveal that this is not the case. Corruption, sexual indiscretions, alcohol and drug abuse, child abuse, war and unhappiness are as rife in Buddhist countries as in their western counterparts. Perhaps humans are good at ascribing to ideas better than themselves, but not many stay the course.

Yet, just as in Christianity, there are the faithful in Buddhism. Thus, during Vassa, these Buddhist monks and nuns remain inside monasteries and temple grounds, devoting their time to intensive meditation and study. Laypeople support the monastic sangha by bringing food, candles and other offerings to temples. My students and I recently made this pilgrimage. See the pictures above and on my facebook site.

As in Christianity, many Buddhists also observe Vassa (Lent) by giving up something, such as smoking or eating meat. This tradition of meditation and study began during the life of Buddha. The first Buddhist monks did not remain in one place, but walked from village to village, to teach. They begged for their food and often slept out-of-doors, sheltered only by trees. Yet during India’s summer rainy season living as homeless ascetics became much more difficult. So groups of monks found a place to stay together until the rain stopped, forming a temporary religious community. The wealthy sometimes sheltered these groups of monks on their estates. Eventually they built permanent houses for monks, an early form of the monastery.

Changing My Mind: An American Perogative

My students need a huge dose of freedom. Wai Kru is a practice here of honoring the teacher, and although it is lovely for the recipient, it may not be so lovely for the one scraping and bowing. I know this is a reversal of my former position, but that's what I like about being American: I get to change my mind.

I've been teaching in Thailand just under three months. In that time I've begun to realize that critical thinking skills are missing from many of my students. They can copy what I put up on the blackboard, but their school lives are separate from their private lives by miles and miles. That seems a complete waste of pop culture and their formal education. It isn't that I want to turn them into cynical Americans, but they would definitely benefit from learning to ask the hard questions. They could start with the question, "why?". They could follow with "how?".  They need to know what things are, what they're called, and to question whether something ought to remain the way it is.

For instance, recently the grounds crew sprayed for mosquitoes just outside our classroom. In Thailand, there are few windows with glass panes. It never gets cold enough to require them.  Rainy season is nearly upon us. On this particular day, chemical clouds came wafting through the open windows of my classroom. First the students began to cough and to cover their faces with their shirts. Then some of the students quickly raced to pull the shutters closed and draw the curtains. There is an open wire grid at the top of the window openings that runs the full extent of the wall, which allowed the chemical fumes to continue pouring into the classroom. I was grateful for the quick thinking of the one or two students, and I was appalled that the spray was used while the students were on site and downwind.  It is yet another way that the least important discover their lack of status in a hierarchical culture.

When I investigated later, I read that in 1995, the production, import, export and possession of DDT were prohibited in Thailand, and in 2003 the use of DDT for Malaria control was prohibited. Yet, according to the World Health Organization (WHO), export of obsolete stocks to Europe continues. I'm not sure if this apparent violation is the tip of the iceberg, compliance on paper only, or a way to get rid of an aging DDT stockpile. Because I'm not sure, I will continue to search for answers. My students know only to close the wooden shutters and draw the shiny fabric curtains. They don't know to protest. Who would listen to them? I'm also not sure how often they are exposed to these chemicals: yearly, monthly? How much is too much? Who decides? How much information does the guy using this stuff have about its danger? Does anyone know? Does anyone care? Right now, my lungs are a mess. I have asthma and my body registers damages within the environment almost immediately. I've learned to pay attention to my body.

A little background: DDT was discovered in 1939 by a Swiss chemist, Paul Muller. It was so effective at killing pests and boosting crop yields and so inexpensive to make that its use quickly spread over the globe. Muller was awarded the Nobel Prize for his discovery in 1948.

In 1962, Rachel Carson's book, Silent Spring, was published, and many began to question the wide scale use of such chemicals. Carson, a scientist, issued grave warnings about pesticide overuse, and predicted massive destruction of the planet's fragile ecosystems unless more was done to halt the "rain of chemicals." Many believe that her book launched the environmental movement. In 1972, the U.S. outlawed DDT.

However, the makers of the toxic chemical found buyers for their plants -- in S.E. Asia.

According to Oregon State University:

      "DDT is still widely used in less developed countries. And, ironically, when the last DDT  
      manufacturing plant in the US was dismantled in 1983, it was sold to Indonesia, where it   
      continued to manufacture DDT until Indonesia ratified the Stockholm Convention on Persistent
      Organic Pollutants in 2009, just three years ago; Indonesia is no longer manufacturing DDT. 
      Twenty five developing countries, however, got exceptions allowing them to keep using DDT, 
      because it is the cheapest and most accessible defense against malaria-transmitting mosquitoes. 
      This whole malaria and DDT issue is really tough -- between 1 and 3 million people die each year
      from malaria. 

No one wants to say whether DDT is more or less damaging in the long run. It can cause cancer, destroy whole species, and cause developmental delays in unborn children. It takes eons to break down, and malaria carrying pests ultimately develop a resistance to the strain. Is there a way to make safer products more available? Killing people and species with chemicals is not a better idea than letting them die of Malaria. There needs to be other, better solutions.

Oregon State University:

      In some cases, DDT is still effective against the disease-bearing mosquitoes, and many people
      feel that the benefits from continuing to use it for this purpose, which [they think] outweighs the
      risks. However, resistance problems are likely, and ultimately, will force a change in control
      approaches. For instance, there is considerable success with the use of bednets -- mosquito netting
      that is treated with an insecticide and suspended over a person's bed, protecting them during the
      evening and night when the mosquitoes are most active -- coupled with more effective 
      dissemination of anti-malaria drugs. Finally there are common sense measures, such as filling
      chinks in walls that fill with water and provide mosquito breeding grounds. 


There is a dire need for better drainage spaces that will carry the run-off from the pervasive rain, to more useful sites: rice fields, for instance, or through filtering areas that percolate the water safely and naturally. Surely the brain-trust on the planet can come up with cost effective ways, eco-system friendly, to reduce the infectious and disease bearing mosquito population by radically reducing places where it breeds. Perhaps this should be a science project for all sixth graders, all over the world. Problems of disease seem foremost in importance, and thus, a good place to focus our attention. The sooner we get to it, the sooner we will find solutions.

All students, especially in this learning community, need to develop critical thinking skills, because their country is desperately in need of their help. In Thailand, a favor offered is a favor returned. These students are the future leaders. They must learn to ask and answer difficult questions. They must practice these skills often in order to get faster and better at sizing up a situation and knowing what to do about it. They will inherit this country. I fear what's ahead for them if they don't learn necessary survival skills: how to think, question, act.

 

The Flowers offered on Whai Kru Day

The students bring flowers on Whai Kru Day

Whai Kru Day

Whai Kru

Today was Whai - Kru Day at school. This is the traditional act of obeisance on the part of the students toward the teachers. The phrase, "Whai - Kru" means respect to teachers.  In this "Phi - Thee" (means ceremony), which takes several days to bring into being, the students practice songs and gather flowers. Each class creates a configuration of flowers in a pedestal bowl. These are ornate and highly stylized colors and shapes.

Then the students clean the school from top to bottom. On the day of the ceremony, they come to our offices and bow before the chosen teachers. They sing songs of appreciation, present her or him with flowers to wear or to carry. The necklaces I wear are made of "Horm" (fragrant) "Dok Ma-li" (Jasmine blossoms). The Thais present gifts often and they take great store in acts of kindness. I was moved to tears when some of my students presented me with several necklaces. Then I was taken even more aback when an entire class came and sang to me on their knees. They were weeping and I was weeping. They said, "teacher, we love you." I could only reply that I loved them. I can't remember when I have been so moved.

During the second part of the day, a "Phi - Thee" is held in the big hall. The younger students play traditional Chinese instruments as the hall fills with students. There is a pageantry to this ceremony unlike anything that we experience in the West. The older students and the class leaders carry the ornate flower arrangements up the stairs where teachers sit on a dais. They present the arrangements to each teacher and in return we offer them an "Auy Pon" (a blessing). Then each child drops to their knees and presses their face to the floor. Wave after wave, the smaller children come, each bearing a small bouquet of flowers wrapped in banana leaf, in a cone shape. They offer these flowers to the teachers and like the leaders before them, they bow to the floor.

After the ceremony, the children continue to bring flowers, to kneel and sing songs to their teachers. They are often weeping and they hug their teachers in a burst of affection.  The older students visit former teachers and sit at their feet. These acts are voluntary.  I do not know what to make of such humility, except that these lavish displays of love are humbling for the recipient, and they cause the bond between the teacher and the student to deepen. When one of my students said, with tears in her eyes, "I love you," I touched her cheek with my hand and spoke words I never thought I'd say to a student: "I love you too."  And I do love them, as they demand that I love them. They are needy and poor.  They are children and they require a fierce, protective love.  This, I will give them. It's the least any of us can do.

The Thai students are endearing in so many ways. There are far too many of them in one class room, and they misbehave with the same frequency as any students, anywhere. Yet they are also sincere and joyful. This culture expresses itself in other humbling ways. The children are affectionate with each other, often walking arm-in-arm together, singing songs together, the way we did when I was small. They are also affectionate with the adults.

No, I didn't need to be up on that dais. My ego did not swell with power or satisfaction at a child's act of contrition and obeisance. On the contrary, I was moved to tears by so many children trying to please their elders. The West has exported its technology, its fashions, its modes of transportation, skateboard rites-of-passage, and Lady Gaga, but it has not yet succeeded in making Thai children cynical. They are precious, bright and affectionate, and when allowed to be, they are innocent in the extreme. This experience also asks me to consider how it might appear to God when His children willingly humble themselves before Him. I can tell you, from my perspective, it's irresistible.

No, we don't operate like this in the West. We wouldn't consider humbling ourselves before others -- it's out of the question. We're splendidly over-sanitized, a p.c. society that's dying of loneliness. We'd sooner live out our lives in isolation than risk the blank stare that's sure to follow if we ever offered our ritual respect, or lived transparently for that matter. So be it. We've made our beds and just as inevitably, we will lie in them.

Conversely, the Thais have so much community that it makes my head hurt most days. I want nothing more than to shut the door, hole up in my cave, and tap out messages on computer keys, my virtual security blanket. All the while, they're chatting up a storm, eating who knows what from some questionable communal bowl, and beating the living daylights out of each other. We Westerners foster our illusions of family closeness, community connectedness, and respect for one another, but the truth is, we aren't respectful, we're merely uninterested. There's a huge difference. We pretend that we're an egalitarian society, but that's simply not so. One has to care enough to bother asking questions or answering them. We don't care, we don't have to. End of report. We're polite enough that's for sure, but concern ends in 37 seconds, because we've got somewhere else to go, other people to meet. We prefer our illusions of order, and we rationalize about our boundaries until we've negated every human with whom we ever come into contact.

Today I was humbled by child-like obedience to an ages old tradition of respect for one's elders. The thing took several days to accomplish, and hours to sit through. But my students were touched that I cared enough to show up. Their song made it well worth my while.

Inside a Thai Home

We were invited to dinner at the home of a family here in Chiang Rai. Theirs is an exquisite home located across delicate bridge scaling a moat, inside a gate, a curved drive and a lush garden. A golden Retriever, quite an old fellow, and a white Labrador Retriever, met us at the gate. They were inquisitive and territorial at first, and then playful. One brought me his deflated soccer ball. We chatted happily until he was whisked away. I was disappointed that we could not play awhile on the lawn. Dutifully we trooped up marble stairs to a wide lanai, under the eaves of this gracious Asian house.

We stepped into the past when we slipped off our shoes and entered through the teak double doors into a great hall directly inside. It was framed on all sides by paneled walls, several sets of double doors, and a grand staircase. I tried not to gawk but managed not to do so only with difficulty. The house invites exploration that would take hours, days, perhaps weeks and months.

We take our cold drinks in the solarium, a huge room made more cozy by clusters of wicker settees, chairs and marble topped tables. Each conversation area holds a thick Oriental carpet in rich vermillion. The walls, also teak, are paneled, and are covered in paintings and batiks. Enormous cabinets hold shiny treasures, the kind one sees in curios everywhere. The windows are floor to ceiling and open to lush foliage, the flora and fauna outside: palm fronds, bougainvillea, hibiscus, banana and lichee fruit trees. Beyond the edge of the garden, the water floats lazily.

At the appointed time, the double doors open and we are ushered into the dining room, another huge room with several dining tables and immense cabinets. Here are family pictures: weddings, graduations, holidays. The round table is easily suited for ten guests, though we are only eight. At the center is a teak Lazy Susan, inlaid with a golden vine around its perimeter: a gift from a Philippine landlord. Porcelain dishes are placed here, loaded with succulence. The menu: Tom Yum soup, sweet and sour shrimp, shrimp tempura, fresh vegetables, Phad Thai, white rice, fish, chicken and local crawdads. The platters are replenished often throughout the meal. For desert, coconut flavored ice cream, a concoction made with vanilla ice cream, coconut jelly and fruit. The over all effect is complex and delicious.

Finally we take our coffee. The conversation with our hosts is at times hilarious yet also poignant. The topic is hospitality. I am always refreshed by traditional Thai hospitality and by this rare evening inside a Thai home.

Tom Yum Soup

Want a soup to boost your immune system, one that tastes delicious? Tom Yum soup is currently under study for its ability to fight off cold and flu viruses, and perhaps even cancer  It's an easy recipe, and quick to cook, but it tastes absolutely delicious. This soup has a mixture of spicy flavors, even as it retains a delicate quality.

 

 

Total Time: 25 minutes

Yield: SERVES 2-3

Ingredients:

• 4-6 cups good-tasting chicken stock
• 1 stalk lemongrass minced, OR 4 Tbsp. frozen prepared lemongrass (available at Asian stores)
• 3 kaffir lime leaves (available fresh or frozen at Asian stores)
• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1-2 red chilies, finely sliced, OR substitute 1/2 to 3/4 tsp. dried crushed chili
• 3 Tbsp. fish sauce (available at all Asian/Chinese food stores and some supermarket chains)
• a generous handful of fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced thinly
• 12 medium raw shrimp, shells removed
• 1/2 can good-quality coconut milk, OR 1/2 can evaporated milk
• 1 Tbsp. freshly-squeezed lime juice
• 1/3 cup fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped
• optional: 1/2 tsp. sugar
• optional: extra vegetables of your choice (shown here: cherry tomatoes & broccoli)

1. Pour stock into a deep cooking pot and bring to a boil.
2. Add the lemongrass and boil for 1-2 minutes. If using fresh lemongrass, also add the upper stalk pieces for extra flavor .
3. Add garlic, chili, lime leaves, and mushrooms. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 1-2 minutes.
4. Add the shrimp (plus other vegetables such as cherry tomatoes and broccoli, if using). Simmer 3-4 minutes, or until shrimp is pink and plump.
5. Reduce heat to medium-low and add the coconut milk plus fish sauce and lime juice. Stir well to combine and gently simmer until hot. Test the soup for salt and spice, adding more fish sauce instead of salt (I usually add 1 more Tbsp.), or more chili as desired. If too sour, add 1/2 tsp. sugar. If too spicy for your taste or if you'd like it creamier, add more coconut milk. If too salty, add another squeeze of lime juice.
6. Serve in bowls with fresh coriander sprinkled over. For an extra hit of flavor, you can also add some Thai chili sauce. Enjoy!

Ramayana

• 

  
  

  • Rama is one of the protagonists of the tale. Portrayed as the seventh avatar of the God Vishnu, he is the eldest and favorite son of the King of Ayodhya, Dasharatha, and his Queen Kausalya. He is portrayed as the epitome of virtue. Dasharatha is forced by Kaikeyi, one of his wives, to command Rama to relinquish his right to the throne for fourteen years and go into exile. An Avatar is defined as "a manifestation of a deity or released soul in bodily form on earth; an incarnate divine teacher" (American Oxford Dictionary).

     

    Sita is another of the protagonists and the beloved wife of Rama, and the daughter of king Janaka. Rama won his chance to marry her by lifting a heavy Bow in a competition organized by King Janaka. The competition was to find the most suitable husband for Sita. Many princes from different states competed to win her hand in marriage. Sita is the avatar of Goddess Lakshmi, the consort of Vishnu. Sita is portrayed as the epitome of female purity and virtue. She follows her husband into exile and is abducted by Ravana. She is imprisoned on the island of Lanka until Rama rescues her by defeating the demon king Ravana. Later, she gives birth to Lava and Kusha, heirs of Rama.

    
    Ravana is the king of Lanka. After performing severe penance for ten thousand years he received a boon from the creator-God: he could henceforth not be killed by Gods, demons, or spirits. He is portrayed as a powerful demon king who disturbs the penances of Rishis. Vishnu incarnates as the human Rama to defeat him, thus circumventing the boon given by Brahma.

  
  

  
  

Pla-Tub-Tim

Pla-Tub-Tim

Thai cuisine blends elements of several Southeast Asian traditions. Thai cooking places an emphasis on lightly prepared dishes with strong spices. However, some are delicate and understated. We were served a whole steamed fish the other night. My Thai friend tells me that it is called 'Pla-Tub-Tim. The fish was beautifully garnished with Chinese cabbage, ginger, carrots, shallots, and small Chinese plums. The interior was flavored with lemon grass, slivered and flattened. The overall flavor was quite subtle.

As with other Asian cuisines, balance, detail and variety are of great significance. Thai food is known for its balance of three to four fundamental taste senses in each dish or the overall meal: sour, sweet, salty, and bitter. Renowned authority on Thai cooking, David Thompson, says that, "Thai food [is] about the juggling of disparate elements to create a harmonious finish. Like a complex musical chord, it's got to have a smooth surface but it doesn't [necessarily] matter what's happening underneath. Simplicity isn't the dictum here. ... to a Thai ... it's the complexity they delight in."

The recipe for Steamed fish with plums is as follows: Open the dorsal (bottom) portion of the fresh water fish and insert flattened, softened lemon grass.

1. Fresh fish
2. 8-10 minutes steaming time. 8 minutes for a smaller fish or 10 minutes for a bigger fish. Use your best judgment, and don’t forget to set your kitchen alarm.
3. Discard the fishy and cloudy fish “water” after steaming. Contrary to common belief, it doesn’t add  flavors to a steamed fish dish. If any, it will leave a bitter–from the fish guts if the fish was not cleaned properly–and fishy taste.
4. Rock sugar. Wonder why the soy sauce is so good that you can just eat plain steamed rice with the soy sauce mixture?  Rock sugar is the secret.
5. Use oil. Heat up some oil in your wok and pour it over the fish before adding the soy sauce. It gives your steamed fish that perfect sheen before you top it with the soy sauce mixture.

• slivered ginger and carrots
• scallions (the leafy part)
• parsley (cilantro)
• Chinese plums
• Chinese cabbage
• Lemon grass (slivered and pounded flat)

This amazing fish is served whole, garnished with lightly steamed vegetables (see above). The finished product is delicate, but is a sensory delight.


"With rice in the fields and fish in the waters" runs a stone-carved inscription in Thailand. Those waters include rivers, lakes, ponds, canals (also known as khlongs), and the flooded rice paddies. Freshwater fish have long been an integral part of the Thai diet. Freshwater fish is in abundance in northern Thailand.

Visitors from Europe and the U.S. are probably more familiar with trout as a freshwater fish and, in recent years, these fish have been farmed and produced at one of the Royal Projects on Doi Inthanon. The market tends to cater to the more prestigious hotels and restaurants in Chiang Mai and Bangkok. However, the local freshwater fish is every bit as delicious.  Because the flesh of river fish tends to taste delicate it lends itself to the subtle combinations of herbs and spices so appreciated in Thai cuisine.

The following lists some of the fish served in traditional Thai restaurants. By the way, "Pla" is the Thai word for "fish"; "Nam Pla" (fish sauce) is the substitute for salt used in most Thai cooking.

Pla Chorn: from the catfish family, it is prepared as a soup or in savory "cups'. The soup -- Tohm Yaam Pla Chorn -- is lemony spicy and thick with chunks of fish meat, chopped tomato and baby white onions. The savory "cups" -- Hor Mok Pla Chorn -- are actually small casings crafted from banana leaves. Fish meat and shredded cabbage is layered in the "cup" and gently steamed.

Pla Doog: Also of the catfish family, is prepared in two different styles.

1.) Yaam Pla Doog Foo; the fish is steamed and the flesh is separated from the carcass. The meat is "teased" into thread-thin strips which are flash-fried to a crunchy crispness. This "nest" of golden crispiness is served on a bed of lettuce with a spicy sauce of lime juice, chili and peanuts.

2.) Pla Doog Tawd Paad Prig -- deep fried chunks of the meaty flesh which, when crisp, are combined with a platter of fried vegetables, chilies and herbs.

Pla Grai: This fish is uniquely marked with a line of 5 to 10 "eyes" along the underside. The flesh is of a very soft texture, and is usually ground/minced and mixed with flavorsome herbs and shaped into small patties. These fish cakes are deep-fried until cooked through and served with a sweet dipping sauce as a starter. The dish is called Tawd Mun Pla Grai. A dish of Hor Mok Pla Grai can be prepared similarly to Hor Mok Pla Chorn above.

Pla Boo: A smaller and excellent alternative to Pla Chorn, this fish is usually served whole. In the dish -- Pla Boo Neung Manow -- the fish is placed on a flat fish-kettle and gently poached, over charcoal or low heat, in a piquant broth of its own juices, limes and slivers of fresh ginger. Served on the fish-kettle and garnished perhaps with finely chopped spring onion sand minced garlic, this dish makes a flavorful and aromatic centerpiece for any dining table. Pla Boo Tohm Sohm is a soup with mild tamarind, ginger, and shallots.

Pla Nua – On: Is a rather flat body, high back, and long fish, with clean appearance. One should be careful about bones though the flesh is quite delicious. There are several dishes that can be prepared with this fish -- depending on cooking styles:

• Tawd Gratium Prig Thai --fried and topped with salty garlic, Shoo Shee -- fried and topped with chili sauce.
• Paad Prig Khing -- fried and topped with ginger and spices.
• Tohm Sohm -- mild spicy and sour soup of ginger,shallots, and tamarind.
• Gang Sohm -- mild spicy and sour soup of vegetable with this Pla Nua - On.

Pla Yeesok: This fish has beautiful golden scale rows between long rows of black. This fish also has delicious meat with few bones. It can be cooked in lemony spicy soup called Tohm Yaam Pla Yeesok. It can also be prepared in a Thai-styled salad, Yaam Pla Yeesok, as well as in Laab Pla -- marinated minced fish meat with herbs, peppermint, chili, and vegetable.

Pla Tapian: This fish has tasty meat but plenty of skinny bones. This fish can be prepared in three different categories.
1.) Can be prepared as soup known as "Tohm" -- depending on the directions of taste.

• Tohm Kem Pla Tapian is a salty-sweet soup. 
• Tohm Yaam Pla Tapian is a hot spicy sour soup.
• Tohm Ohm Pla Tapian is a soup with mild tamarind and ginger.                                        

2.)  Pla Tapian Tawd is a deep fried dish with garlic.
3.) The fish is grill smoked Pla Tapian Yaang and cooke din different ways.

Pla Taypo and Pla Sawai: Both fish are in the same family with similar size and do not have scales. The former has black marks on left and right sides over each fin. The 2-3kilogram fish can eat everything including manure of both animal sand human beings, which does not bode well for the sensibilities of Westerners. Nonetheless, the meat is tasty, though a rather strong odor which can be eliminated by using garlic, spice, and herbs along with deep frying -- Pla Taypo (or Pla Swai) Tawd.
A second choice could be Pla Taypo (or Pla Sawai) Raad Prig (Shoo Shee) -- fried and topped with chili sauce. A third choice is red curry fish -- Gaeng Ped Pla Taypo (or Pla Sawai). A last choice would be grill smoked --Pla Taypo (or Pla Sawai) Yaang.

Includes music and dance

The market stays open until 11pm

One Stop Shop for all your fried cricket needs ...

Saturday Market

At the Saturday Market

There are roughly 74 differing languages among the people who come down from the mountain to sell their vegetables and fruit. The elevation of the mountains is not so high, only about 5,000 feet. Chiang Rai is situated between two mountain peaks, called the Daen Lao Range (located in Burma or Myanmar, as it is now known) & Phi Pan Nam Range, which means, “The spirits are distributing the waters.”  This is a river valley: the Mae Kok River flows out of the Mekong River through these parts, hence the name of the mountain range. The people from the foothills come down with their fruits and vegetables and sell them at the marketplace: scallions, tomatoes, potatoes, broccoli, mangoes, etc ...  My house sets outside the former gates to the city, which are no longer there, and beyond the moat, which still exists. I cross over daily to go to school, to church, and to the market place. On the corner is the tea shop where I will go to purchase teapots before I leave. They are exquisitely beautiful!

Today I wandered, along with a colleague, into a Buddhist temple. The monk graciously allowed me to take his picture and then refused payment. The Thai king was once a Buddhist monk. This is a standard rite-of-passage among males. It is an emotional aspect of family life, a part of the culture, and embedded deeply within the national psyche. Buddhism, capitalism and patriotism are basic tenets of life here. They commingle with ease, sharing the same terrain.

The king is deeply revered by the Thai people. Because this is so, every restaurant, bank and school hangs his picture and that of the queen. This tradition is also seen in Buddhist temples. He is a good king, looking after his subjects, taking care of their needs, and caring about them. He is considered something of a role model and a renaissance man: a musician, an inventor, and a photographer.

The king was born on a Monday and the color attached to that day is yellow. Thus, on Monday, many wear yellow. There is a color attached to each day of the week: Sunday is red, Tuesday is pink, Wednesday is green, Thursday is orange, Friday is blue, Saturday is purple. The Thai people value harmony and unity, while we in the West prefer individuality and independence. A little bit of each is helpful. Despite their respect for harmony, Thai people are colorful, vocal and present. They don't lack originality by any means.

The Temple and the streets of Chiang Rai

The seasons in Thailand seem marked by heat (more or less), and rain (more or less). This is the hot/rainy season. Perhaps there will be a less hot/rainy season, a less hot/less rainy season, and a less hot/more rainy season, but no discernible change in light. Currently, the sky opens up, thunder rolls and cracks. It's quite marvelous. Then comes the deluge. It stops for a moment and then begins again. It is refreshing because it wipes away the smog and the noise for awhile.

The house where I live is spacious. The windows open jalousie style. The house is located behind a wall, with several other houses, inside a wrought iron fence.  It has a communal sensibility. The grounds are immaculately kept.  My neighbor is a Spaniard and his wife is Thai. He teaches at my same school. There is also a couple from the Dominican Republic who teach at the International school.  School begins here on May 16th. I've attended orientation, though I'm still mystified as to the system. I'll be team teaching with a Thai teacher, which will, no doubt, prove helpful in negotiating this new system.

I've traversed Chiang Rai from one end to the other on foot. It's a fascinating place, full of open air markets, temples, gardens, lush growth and flowers.  The Thai people are gracious in the extreme. They have seen to me from the first moment I arrived: taking me for a meal, shopping for essentials, and understanding my strange western ways. I wish we Americans were as gracious to newcomers amongst us. Even strangers try to help me. One gentleman sent his teen-aged son over to inquire if I was lost (I was) and to direct me toward home.

Suwadeekah!

---

โรงเรียนเทศบาล 6 นครเชียงรายและโรงเรียนเชียงรายวิทยาคม สนับสนุนเด็กนักเรียนในโรงเรียนเรียนรู้จักการแบ่งปันแก่ผู้ที่ยากไร้กว่า โดยบริจาคเงินผ่านโครงการ

The Heart of Giving 

 ของมูลนิธิศุภนิมิตแห่งประเทศไทย มีเด็กยากไร้ได้รับความช่วยเหลือ 4 รายเงินบริจาคซึ่งรวบรวมมาจากการที่เด็กนักเรียนหยอดเงินที่เหลือจากค่าขนมลงในกล่องรับบริจาคส่วนบุคคล จำนวนรวมกว่า 50,000 บาท มูลนิธิฯ นำไปอุปการะเด็กยากไร้จำนวน 4 คน ในพื้นที่ดำเนินงานโครงการพัฒนาชุมชนเป็นพื้นที่แบบพึ่งตนเองและยั่งยืนพญาพิภักดิ์ อ.เวียงแก่น จ.เชียงราย ซึ่งช่วยให้เด็กๆ เหล่านี้มีโอกาสทางการศึกษามากขึ้น ครอบครัวได้รับการส่งเสริมด้านอาชีพหลักและอาชีพเสริม ช่วยให้มีรายได้มากขึ้น รวมทั้งได้รับการดูแลด้านสุขอนามัยและสิ่งแวดล้อมภายในครอบครัวและชุมชน ตลอดจนการพัฒนาองค์กรชุมชนให้มีความเข้มแข็ง เพื่อนำไปสู่การพัฒนาชุมชนอย่างยั่งยืนต่อไป

General Translation: Chiengrai Vidhayakhome School motivates their students to give to under-privileged children by making donations through World Vision's The Heart of Giving Project. Through this unanimous giving, four underprivileged children received help.

The students added up their candy money that they put in their donation boxes and came up with 50,000 baht. World Vision used this amount to sponsor four underprivileged children in Phayapipak, ADP, Wieng Kaen district, Chiang Rai. These children received greater educational opportunities, and their families were supported in main and additional livelihood: greater income, health care in families and communities. This has led to [a more] sustainable community.

Tradition Thai Folk Music

You may listen to traditional Thai folk music through this link. http://youtu.be/ENQ7VWbzuNY

Climate data for Chiang Rai
Month	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
Average high °C (°F)	27.6 (81.7)	30.9 (87.6)	33.5 (92.3)	34.9 (94.8)	33.2 (91.8)	31.7 (89.1)	30.9 (87.6)	30.6 (87.1)	30.6 (87.1)	29.8 (85.6)	28.2 (82.8)	26.5 (79.7)	30.7 (87.3)
Daily mean °C (°F)	18.9 (66.0)	21.1 (70.0)	24.1 (75.4)	26.8 (80.2)	27.0 (80.6)	26.8 (80.2)	26.4 (79.5)	26.1 (79.0)	25.8 (78.4)	24.5 (76.1)	22.0 (71.6)	18.8 (65.8)	24.0 (75.2)
Average low °C (°F)	11.9 (53.4)	12.9 (55.2)	15.9 (60.6)	19.7 (67.5)	22.0 (71.6)	22.9 (73.2)	22.8 (73.0)	22.6 (72.7)	22.0 (71.6)	20.3 (68.5)	17.0 (62.6)	12.8 (55.0)	18.6 (65.5)
Precipitation mm (inches)	12.2 (0.48)	7.8 (0.307)	19.1 (0.752)	89.8 (3.535)	203.9 (8.028)	211.2 (8.315)	308.2 (12.134)	385.4 (15.173)	268.4 (10.567)	142.4 (5.606)	60.5 (2.382)	24.6 (0.969)	1,733.5 (68.248)
Avg. rainy days	2	1	3	10	17	19	22	24	18	12	6	3	137
Source no. 1: Thai Meteorological Department[2]
Source no. 2: Hong Kong Observatory [3]

Chiang Rai, Thailand: เมืองเชียงราย

The Intrigue: Chiang Rai, where I will be living for the next year, is located at the very northern part of Thailand, and is approximately 120 miles north of Chiang Mai. The village is the jumping off place for the infamous Golden Triangle, สามเหลี่ยมทองคำ, one of Asia's two main illicit opium-producing areas, covering an area of about 367,000 sq miles that overlaps the mountains of four countries of Southeast Asia: Burma, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. 

A Little history: Chiang Rai was established as a capital city in the reign of King Mangrai, in the year 1262 CE, and became the capital of the Mengrai dynasty. The full name means: "Mangrai's City." Subsequently, Chiang Rai was conquered by Burma and remained under Burmese rule for several hundred years. It was not until 1786 that Chiang Rai became Chiang Mai vassal. After Siam, or Thailand as it is now known, annexed Chiang Mai in 1899, Chiang Rai was proclaimed a province of Thailand in 1933.

Here's another bit of history and more intrigue: In 1432 during the reign of King Sam Fang Kaen of Mangrai dynasty (1402–1441) the Phra Kaeo, or Emerald Buddha, the most revered Buddha statue, was discovered in Chiang Rai when an earthquake split the Chedi at Wat Phra Kaeo of Chiang Rai City. The beautiful jade figure had been concealed. Another version of the tale has it that the 'Emerald Buddha' was hastily covered in mud just before marauders entered to pillage. It wasn't until many years later that the clunky-looking mud Buddha was found to actually house the magnificent jade statue, perhaps by way of the earthquake mentioned above - which caused a piece of the clay to break off - revealing the jade beneath.